How to choose the right bra cup size! For big breasts, and small - Expert guide

We will talk about sizes and measurements. When you measure yourself with a tape measure, this is a measurement, e.g. "78 cm around the body". Sizes are the designations used on bras, e.g. "75F".

Measurement above the bust (a) means the circumference of the body where the bust is largest and protrudes most from the chest and around your back. (Measurement above the bust and measurement above the bust are not the same.) Measurement below the bust (b) means the circumference of the body with a tape measure placed directly under your bust, where the bust attaches to the chest.

There's nothing wrong with your bust - it's your bra size!

Bra are the most important of lingerie items, yet the majority of women wear the wrong bra size. Why? Because we think we understand bra sizes and how bras should fit. But most of us are wrong. Many people's "knowledge" of bra sizes is based on a mix of anecdotes and hearsay. A fatal mix of truths and unintentional inaccuracies. Then we buy the wrong bra sizes, year after year.

Often we buy "the same bra size I've always had" (which is completely wrong). The result is back pain, sore shoulders, poor posture, etc. So much unnecessary suffering. Our breast change due age and breast feeding. It's highly unlikely that an old bra will fit securely year after year.

When you measure your bra size, keep in mind that you are actually measuring two things: band and cup. Both these are needed for a perfect fit with a snug feeling without spillage and the right amount of support.

In this guide you will learn how to measure bra size at home. We will help you calculate to find a better fit so you can start wearing the right bra for your specific needs. If you want to be sure you're wearing a perfect fit, you should do a band and cup measurement at least every six months.

Many women believe that there are no suitable bras for their bust. They accept a poor fit in the belief that it is the best available.

No, your bust is not weird or wrong. It's most likely just a wrongly chosen bra size based on well-meant but unfortunately wrong advice (often from ignorant shop staff). Even those who are fully convinced they know bra sizes are often wrong. No offense, but this may apply to you. So please keep an open mind when reading this article.

Our goal is not to prove you wrong. Instead, we want to educate and help.

Distinguish between size and quality - they are not the same thing

Here's what we sometimes hear: "I've always been a 75F (34F). This new bra doesn't fit me at all, even though it says 75F (34F). It must mean it's poor quality!"

The person in the quote is confusing size and quality. If you blindly accept only one size and dismiss everything else as "poor quality", you are doing yourself a real disservice.

An old EU 75F / US 34F bra cannot possibly have the same fit as when it was new. All bras stretch over time to some degree, regardless of their quality. (High-quality bras stretch much less.) If an old EU 75F / US 34F bra fits you like a glove after 2 years, it means your body has changed. A new EU 75F / US 34F from the same brand and model will feel much smaller, if it fits at all.

Of course, there are plenty of bad, crappy products on the market. But among serious brands and shops, the wrong size and fit is rarely a question of quality.

The wrong size means that that particular bra model from that particular brand does not fit you in the same size as you used to have in the past or still have in other brands. The same goes for clothes. Some bras have a design that won't feel right regardless of if size might be correct or if they are recommended in Vogue. You are unique!

Band size first - Then the cup!

ALWAYS start by choosing your bra band size before choosing your cup size! In our previous article Start with the bra band, not the cups! we explained why this is crucial. We explained how bra cup sizes are based on band sizes. A cup size on its own means nothing. The band is the "foundation" of a well-fitting bra. Incorrect choice of band size always results in the wrong cup size.

In very simple terms, the following summary can be made about bands: The support for your breasts should come from the band. The band must therefore sit firmly on the body. In order for this to happen, the band measurement must be taken with a tight fit and then rounded down. If you measure in centimeters, round down to 0 or 5. If you get 74 round down to 70. If you get 81 round down to 80.

If you measure in inches and you get an odd number, always round down to an even number (0, 2, 4 etc). If you get just above 33 inches, don't round up to 34 inches. Round down to 32 inches!

The most common mistake women make is choosing a bra with too large band size where rounding up is a common mistake.

What is a cup size? - Most people are mistaken

The cup size of a bra is denoted by letters: A, B, C, D, etc. However, these letters do not indicate how big (the volume) a bust can fit in a cup. Instead, the cup sizes, i.e. the letters, indicate the difference in measurements under the bust and around the bust.

The cup size indicates the size of the bust in relation to the band. This is why you need to know what the band size is before trying to determine the cup size.

Confused? Imagine you say that you are "90% tall". This means nothing if you do not specify what this 90% is in relation to. Similarly, you can think about cup sizes. "I have a C-cup". C-cup in relation to what?

A cup size means nothing without the band size. Small breasts can have F in cup size. Therefore, stop focusing on the letter of the cup size.

Warning! A handful of brands have other methods for determining cup size. We will not discuss these methods because they are differ from the majority and only apply to individual brands. It is likely that at least 95% of all bra brands use the method we describe, it certainly will help you find a bra that fits.

The volume of the cup size is based on the band

Remember, a cup size (A, B, C, D etc) is just a designation, a label. The cup size refers to the difference between cup and band. This means that, for example, a D-cup in 70D/32D and a D-cup in 85D/38D are different sizes. These cups do not accommodate the same size of bust. They do not have the same volume. However, 30G/65G, 32F/70F, 34E/75E, 36D/80D and 38C/85C are comparable in volume. This is the exact core of the misunderstanding and confusion.

This makes finding the perfect fit tricky. In your quest for the best bra styles that will offer great fit and support, keen in mind that changing cup and band size affect eachother. If you go down a band size you have to go up a cup size to keep the same cup volume. If you go up a band size you have to go down a cup size. Band size is not affected by cup, which is why starting with band is crucial.

We explain this more in our article How to choose the correct bra cup size when changing band size.

Actual size of bra cups (their volume)

The topic of cup sizes can be a bit overwhelming and confusing. It becomes easier if you visualize with a table comparing the volume of cup sizes. Beast volume is measured in cubic centimeters denoted as cm³ or cc. (1 oz equals 29.6 cm³.)

Each row shows bra sizes that have cups of the same volume. The table is a generalization. It will differ between bra models and brands. However, the table gives us a very good overview.

Difference between how sizes sound and how big they actually are

In the table, we see that bras of size 32F/70F and 40A/95A have the same volume. However, shape and fit is different. From the cup diameter we can conclude that the latter is wider but "shallower".

It is easy to make wrong assumptions. Cup size 'F' may sound big, cup size 'A' may sound small, but that doesn't tell you how big breasts will fit in the cups.

Doubling cup size - B is not twice as big as A

Even if you stick to the same band size, you have to be careful. Many women think that a B-cup is twice as big as an A-cup, but that's just not the case! To double the volume of a 32A/70A we need to go up to 32D/70D. A to D are three steps up in cup sizes. To double the cups in the 70D/32D, we need to go up four steps, to 32H/70H. The next doubling is five steps to 32M/70M.

Weight, volume and 'heavy bust'

Your breasts are not heavier than other people's breasts. You probably just need a new or better bra.

It is true that breasts have different densities. However, the differences are small and generally insignificant. Breasts are not "heavier" than other breasts, they are larger. The breast weights shown in the tables are based on natural breasts with a density of around 0.9kg/cm³, meaning that breasts are 10% lighter than water. (Note that we are talking about breast density, not breast firmness. These are completely different things.)

"Heavy" breasts is almost always a matter of unsuitable bra styles, wrong sizes, poor posture and sometimes all three at the same time. When these things create problems, it can feel like your breasts are heavier. Keep in mind that bras always stretch over time. If you have worn a bra for 2-3 years, it will not be the same exact size as when it was new. An old, stretched bra will fit worse and may be the reason why your breasts feel "heavier". A good quality bra will keep its shape much longer than low quality products. But even a high quality bra is not immune to the ravages of time.

Always consider the volume of your breasts when choosing cup sizes. Do not adjust your measurements to compensate for "heavy" breasts.

Breast implants, i.e. silicone breasts, are slightly different. The density of silicone is around 1.05kg/cm³ or 2.31lb/cc. Silicone breasts can therefore be estimated to weigh up to 15% more than natural breasts. Even though silicone breasts weigh slightly more, you should still go by volume.

Learn how cups should fit first - Measure and choose size later

In our experience, many women do not know or feel insecure about how a cup should fit. It is pointless to take measurements and look at sizing tables without proper knowledge.

To achieve a goal, you first need to know what the goal is. You must first understand how bra cups should actually fit on your body - then you can measure and choose cups. How do you know if a bra cup is too big or too small? How do you know if the fit is correct? How should underwires sit against the body? Why have underwires at all? What should you consider if you have a larger bust? All these questions need to be answered. Only then, when we know how a well-fitting cup should sit on the body, can we measure ourselves and choose a cup size.

Don't make the mistake of tweaking your results to try to get the same size you are currently wearing. You are not a cup size.

The bust should not bulge or spill over the cup

A properly fitting bra cup should embrace the entire breast, from all sides. However, this does not mean that a well-fitting bra cup must cover the entire breast. Bras come in different types. The type that covers the entire breast is called a full cup. Other bra models will normally not cover the upper part of the breasts but will leave it visible.

As a rule of thumb, it's better that the cups are slightly too big than too small. This is why we don't round our bust measurement to the nearest whole number, but rather round up!

To evaluate yoru fit, keep your shoulder and elbows down to allow for the most common position.

The bust is overflowing on the front side

Parts of the breasts may be visible. However, the breasts should not 'spill out' over the edge of the cup. The breasts should not create bulges. Bulges are classics signs of ill-fitting bras.

A well-fitting bra should result in two breasts, not four or more due to bulging. This is easily seen from the side. If the edge of the cup cuts into the breast and creates a bulge, it usually means that the bra cup is too small or is at least on the smaller side.

It is possible that the bra style does not fit. Some bras have stiff seams that allow a larger bust to bulge out. In this case, try a different style. In most cases, a bust that bulges over the edge, or on the sides, indicates that the cup size is too small. Seen from the side, the bust should look even.

The bust overflows at the armpit

Another common place for bulges is at the armpit. It is common that the wearer push the bust towards the armpit if the bust is overflowing at the front. This is not a solution. You avoid bulges in the front but instead everything ends up at the armpit. The breasts should stay where they are. They should not be pushed to the side to fit inside!

The bust bulges on the underside

It is easy to miss bulges on the underside of the cups as they are obstructed from view by your bust. Use a handheld mirror.

If your breasts creep out on the underside of the cups, it means that the cups are too small. If the underwire presses on the lower part of the bust, this normally also means the cup size is too small. In a properly fitting bra, the underwire sits just below the breast so that nothing slips out.

Please note that we assume that you have the correct band size. Always choose the band first! If the band is completely loose against your body, like a t-shirt, the bust can simply push the cups away and bulge out.

The bridge and sternum are central to the fit of the cup.

A good starting point for cup fit is to feel how the bra bridge sits against our breastbone.

The bra bridge (also called the gore) is the middle part of a bra, between the cups. It connects the cups, hence the name 'bridge'. Although the bridge is a small part of a bra, it plays a central role in the fit of the cups.

The sternum is located in the center of our chest. It is a vertical bone that holds the clavicle and ribs together. Touch that area and familiarize yourself with the sternum.

The bridge should sit flat against the body, between the breasts, on the sternum. The bridge should not protrude and hang loose. It should sit comfortably but firmly on the breastbone. Too small cups often (but not always) push the bridge away from the body. As a rule of thumb, if the bridge is not stable on the breastbone, the size or bra style is wrong.

If the bra has underwires, it is important that both underwires sit flat against the breastbone. The ends of the underwires should not protrude or hang loose. The underwire should always sit firmly in place without chafing. Do not ignore this, it will not get better with time. Underwires (in good bras) will not lose their shape or "soften". If it chafes now, it will chafe later too. Choose a bra and size that suits you better.

Keep in mind that if you change one band size down, the cups become smaller and the bridge end up levitating.

Cups with underwires are the most supportive - if they fit properly

Many people think that underwires are uncomfortable and that it is in their nature to be so. This is not true, except in exceptional cases. Cups with the right fit are normally at least as comfortable and pleasant to the bust as underwired cups. In addition, underwire bras usually provide better support.

Underwires are comfortable and advantageous, especially for large busts

Well-chosen underwired bras are often more comfortable than those without underwire. This is because underwire bras separate the breasts more distinctively and prevent them from moving around. Breasts given too much freedom of movement can "settle" uncomfortably in the cups.

Without underwire, larger breasts can more easily move to the center of the bra and "melt" into a single mass. If the breasts slide together or are not well supported, they may feel "heavy".

A woman with a larger bust often has a less visible sternum between her breasts. In these cases, it is particularly beneficial to choose a good underwire bra that supports the bust. An underwired bra has a more stable shape that helps place the bridge where it should be.

For large breasts, bras with underwire cups are recommended.

Underwires should "frame" the bust

The underwire of a bra should keep the breasts apart and help hold them up. It should also hold the bust against the body and frame it properly. For all of this to be possible, the underwire must sit close and flat to the body.

Under the bust and firmly against the body

The underwire should be placed just where the bust meets the chest. The underwire should not be on top of the bust, but also not too far away. Imagine how comfortable shoes are, not too tight but not too loose. The underwire should be tight and go from the breastbone between the bust, just below the chest and all the way out to the sides. The entire arc of the underwire should rest on the chest, not protrude anywhere and certainly not squeeze the breasts themselves.

If the underwire presses into the chest instead of sitting well against the breastbone, the cup size is usually too small. (Too small cups also usually means that the band is too big!) If you feel that your bra cups feel too small and tight, the size is too small. The bust should be able to fit well but at the same time have good support. The underwire should sit well under, between and to the side of the bust, evenly against the body and without chafing.

If you dislike underwired bras because they feel uncomfortable, you should check that you are wearing the right cup size. If the bra fits well and you are wearing the right size, the underwire should not be felt at all. Again, compare with how shoes fit. Keep in mind that there are bras that fit properly but are still uncomfortable. In these cases, it is best to look for a different style or try a bra made of different materials.

Inflammation of the breasts from underwired bras

Sometimes underwires are singled out as something risky that can cause inflammation of the breasts. This is a great exaggeration. It is not braces but pressure in general that can cause inflammation, almost exclusively among breastfeeding mothers. Pressure can create a blockage in the milk glands that prevents the milk from coming out. This in turn can cause inflammation. If your underwires fit properly, they are as harmless as a bra without underwires.

Where do the breasts end?

Knowing where the breast ends and the rib cage begins is important for determining the fit of a cup, especially a cup with underwire. The most difficult area to determine where the breast ends is in the armpit area.

It is mainly women with larger breasts who find it difficult to determine where their breasts end, but they are also the ones with the greatest need to get it right. When underwire poke into the breast, it happens with more force due to the greater weight of the bust. This can be painful. Underwires are good but it is important to choose the right one and listen to your body.

A good rule of thumb is that the end of the underwire should point to the center of the armpit. For wireless bras, look instead at the seams surrounding the cups and where their ends point.

This rule works particularly well for medium and large and wide-set breasts. Smaller breasts usually do not have the same "width" and are often placed in the middle of the chest and can therefore allow to point more upwards.

How do you know if bra cups are too big?

We are mainly talking about too small cups as this is the most common problem. Sometimes it is the other way around. If a bra cup is too big, it creates a gap between the breast and the cup, either at the front or at the sides. Oversized cups will not lift or support your bust.

If you have issues with gaping cups consider the underwire too. If the underwire is far from the chest, especially at the sides, the cup is too big. If you also use too small a band size, it will feel too tight around the back but too loose around the bust. The result is that neither the bust, back nor shoulders get the support they need. It becomes uncomfortable in the long run.

How to put on a bra correctly?

How you put on your bra plays a big role. Everything mentioned above can only be checked if the bra you are trying on is put on correctly. If you put on a bra in the wrong way, there is a risk that your bra test will give wrong indications.

Do not force the bust into the cups

Knowledge about bras is only effective if it is implemented. A lot of women tend to fool themselves into thinking that a bra that fits wrong still feels right. The most common mistake is to increase the size of the band to make it easier to fasten the bra. Many women wear cups that are too small so that their breasts protrude, but pretend that everything is fine. Others push their breasts to the side so that they don't spill over at the front, extend the bra straps too much, or vice versa.

All these "tricks" are counterproductive! You won't be able to find a well-fitting and comfortable bra if you don't put it on correctly.

The correct way to put the bust in the cups

A bra is not a t-shirt that you just pull on your body. The essence of putting on a bra correctly lies in the adjustment of the bust in the cups. Start by putting on your bra. Cluse the closure on the back of your band and pull the shoulder straps up onto your shoulders.

One breast at a time, gather the breast from the armpit inwards towards the cup, and put them in place. You can also bend down and shake the breasts into place while holding the underwire. Once you have done this, be sure to check if the bust is spilling over the cup. If the answer is yes, then the cup size is too small.

Many women find that a cup size that seemed too large at first glance actually fills out after putting the breasts in place. Similarly, it is easy to notice if the cup size is too small.

If you do not make this adjustment, there is a high risk that the bust will lay wrong in the cups. For your own sake, don't skip this part.

Forget your old size - be open-minded!

Now that you're an expert on bra cup fit, we can finally measure and calculate your size (hopefully it's clear now why an in-depth discussion on fit was so important to begin with).

Leave old beliefs about your bra size behind you

Ask yourself, why do you want to know how to choose the right bra size? Is it to make better choices? Or is it to confirm your previous choices and opinions. A lot of women are told that they should wear a different size than the one "they've always had" but don't act on it. They decide that the new result "must be wrong". Don't make this mistake. Use your new knowledge of bra sizes.

Forget the cup size you've "always had." Be open-minded. This is especially true if you read our article on band sizing, and found that your size is different from before. For example, if you change from band size US38/EU85 to US34/EU75, you will need to go up one or two letters in cup size, e.g. from D to F cup.

Every breast is different. It is possible that you will need to try on several sizes. However, first you need to find a size to start with. For this, we will first measure ourselves and then use size charts.

How to measure your bust to calculate your cup size

We assume that you already know your underbust measurement, i.e. the measurement that determines the band size. (In short, when measuring underbust circumference, you need to tighten the measuring tape. However, this is a simplification. We recommend that you read our article on band size as the wrong band always leads to the wrong cup size).

The cup size is always measured and calculated after the band. The back strap is based on underbust measurements. You should therefore have your underbust measurement already available. We now need to measure circumference around the bust and torso. "Around the bust" refers to the measurement where the bust is largest - see image below. "Around the bust" also does not mean "above the bust".

Measure around the bust - without tightening up

The breasts should rest in the cups, without the cups compressing. Measure the bust without tightening at the fullest part of your chest. Always round up to the nearest centimeter or nearest inch. Place the tape measure over the widest part of the bust, so that it rests just where the bust protrudes most from the chest. The tape measure should be horizontal to the floor, and at the same level at both the front and the back.

Do not include the nipples in your measurement. Nipples can stick out a lot and add several centimeters or inches to your measurement. This in turn can result in an oversized cup. For many, the bust is largest just at the height of the nipples. In these cases, the tape measure is placed directly below or above the nipples.

Should you measure yourself with or without a bra on?

You can measure with a bra. This is common if your bust hangs for natural reasons, such as breastfeeding, weight loss, age or because your bust is very large. Wear a soft, unpadded bra that lifts the bust to a natural height. The bra you measure in should neither push up nor flatten the bust. Make sure to use a bra that covers everything and that allows for two fingers between the band and your body at the back.

Should you stand up or bend over when measuring your bust?

Some people prefer to bend forward when measuring the circumference of the bust. Breasts have different firmness. Breasts of the same size can stretch differently in this position and also move around in a way that they wouldn't if you were standing up. This corresponds to your natural body posture and how your breasts behave. In addition, measuring standing up is usually easier to do. We recommend that you stand up when measuring.

Measurement FAQs

What is the most common mistake when measuring bra cup size?

The most common mistake when measuring bra cup size is not taking the measurement over the fullest part of the breasts. Many women tend to measure over the top of the breast or too low.

Should I re-measure my band size when measuring cup size?

Yes, you should always measure both band size (under the bust) and cup size (anound the fullest part of your breast.)

Should I measure myself every time I buy a new bra?

Yes, it's a very good idea to measure every time you shop bras. Our bodies can some times change quite suddenly and rapidly

How to calculate cup sizes - Traditional method

Later in this article, we will look at bra charts that you have probably seen many times before. But first, let's look at methods for calculating cup sizes. We STRONGLY recommend that you familiarize yourself with these. It is precisely these methods that are at the heart of choosing a cup size.

The traditional method for determining cup sizes is to compare measurements around the bust and band size. Almost all brands and shops do this.

A difference of 12 cm means an A cup in the European (EU) size convention. This is equivalent to about 4.5 inches for US and UK. Then the cups go up one step for each additional difference of 2 cm or 1 inch: a difference of 14 cm means B cup, 16 cm means C cup, etc.

Different bra sizing conventions calculate cup sizes differently.

Note that EU, FR, ES, BE, IT AU and NZ increase one cup size for each additional difference of 2 cm. JP and KO for each additional step of 2.5 cm. US and UK for each additional difference of 1 inch (2.54 cm). This means that UK and EU cups are not identical. The only cup sizes that are reasonably similar between the different conventions are B, C and D. Among larger cup sizes, differences increase as the cup size increases.

Most bra sizing guides get this completely wrong, but math and numbers don't lie.

Traditional method based on measurements above the bust (not recommended)

A variation of the traditional method is to perform it with above-bust measurements (just above the bust and under the armpits) instead of below-bust measurements. UK and US band sizes (32, 34 etc) are actually based on above-bust measurements. We do not recommend this method. It is more difficult to measure yourself and often gives very inaccurate results. Most brands and stores that sell UK and US sizes recommend measuring below the bust.

Use the above bust measurement method only if you are given clear instructions on this and how to actually do it. Under-bust and over-bust measurements are almost never identical.

The three-measurement method / Eva Method - A better way to calculate cup sizes

The names "three measurement method" or "Eva method" is something that we ourselves have started to use at Eva's Intimates. We have not found a name for this method elsewhere and do not know if others use it.

The traditional method of calculating cup sizes has a flaw. It does not distinguish between soft tissue in the front, i.e. your breasts, and soft tissue in the back. (We will explain later why this matters.) This can lead to cup size errors. The amount of soft body tissue on the back is highly individual. This may therefore become a major problem for you, or none at all. The Eva method is particularly good for larger bra sizes.

For most readers, the following paragraphs are something completely new. Read carefully, it will be worth it!

Soft backs can lead to oversized bra cups

When we measure band dimensions, we do so tightly to get through soft tissue, including soft tissue on the back. This back measurement helps us to choose a band size that will sit firmly on the body.

When we measure around the bust, we do not do it tightly, as the bust should lie comfortably in the cups without pressure or squeezing. The soft body tissue of the back is included in this measurement. Our measurement over the bust therefore includes breasts, not tight, and soft back tissue, also not tight.

Back tissue adds to the bust measurement, even though we don't really want it to. More soft body tissue on the back means that a larger part of the bust measurement actually comes from a soft back. The result is a measurement that indicates a larger bust than it actually is.

We want to know how much soft tissue on the back adds to our bust measurement so we can exclude it. We want an adjusted or "real" bust measurement.

A third measurement for a better cup size

We can estimate how much the soft back adds to our around-bust measurement. We do this using a third measurement, under bust but not tight. We calculate the difference between the tight under-bust and loose under-bust measurements. We assume that half of this difference is caused by soft tissue on the back. We therefore split the difference in two and use that as our estimate of how much a soft back adds to the bust measurement. We then subtract this estimate from our bust measurement. This is our real bust measurement. We use real bust measurements to determine cup size and look at tables.

When using size charts, it is the actual under bust measurement that you should use instead of the over bust measurement.

Example - Estimation of measurements above the bust with deductions for soft back:
Measurement under bust, tight: 82 cm or 32.3 in
Measurement under bust, not tight: 88 cm or 34.6 in
Measurement around bust: 101 cm or 39.8 in
Deduction for soft back (half the difference between loose and tight): (88-82)/2 = 3 cm or (34.6-32.3)/2 = 1.15 in ≈ 1.2 in
Adjusted measurement over bust: 101 - 3 = 98 cm or 39.8 - 1.2 = 38.6 in

From here we do the same as in the traditional method: the 82 cm measurement is rounded down to backstrap size 80. We calculate 98 - 80 = 18. The difference 18 gives us the D-cup.

With measurements in inches we would round the band measurement down and then 38.6 - 32 = 6.6 in. For bra cups we round up which gives us 7 inches. The difference of 7 gives us a D-cup.

Compare the above results with if you were to use the traditional method only: the 82 cm measurement is rounded down to back strap size 80. We calculate 101 - 80 = 21. The difference 21 gives us E-cup.

Please note that the Eva method only sometimes results in a different cup size than the standard method. The Eva method does not mean "choose one cup less". Do not guess. Measure and calculate.

Congratulations! You now have a method based on measurements and not vague guesses.

Will this solve all size problems? Unfortunately not. But it is a big step in the right direction. We believe the Eva method is much better than ignoring the fact that the traditional method clearly works worse for larger sizes.

How to choose cups among larger bra sizes

What is meant by "larger bra sizes"? It can mean larger cups, a larger band or both.

It is true that it is more difficult to choose a suitable bra size for a larger bust. Large breasts themselves are often not a big problem when choosing a cup size. It becomes more problematic when it comes to larger back strap sizes. As we already know, cup sizes are based on these. If you are careful to choose the right band size, you are already halfway to the right cup size, even for larger busts.

There are many recommendations and tips on how to adjust your calculations if you have a larger torso circumference or larger breasts. However, these are often vague and misleading. Instead, we strongly recommend the Eva method. It is specifically aimed at women with larger sizes.

Cup sizes are actually not about bra styles and types. Larger sizes tend to be very much about support and function. For the best support and function in larger cups, we recommend underwire and full cup type cups.

Bra cup considerations for various breast types

In addition to just size, the type of bra cups matter too. Here are our recommendation:

Round breasts

If your breasts are naturally round (equally full at the top and bottom), then you're lucky enough to not need much from your bra in terms of shaping. Most bra styles will fit well, but you might find a balconette or T-shirt bra to be particularly comfortable.

East-west breasts

If your nipples point in opposite directions and there's a bit of space between your breasts, you have what's known as east-west breasts. A T-shirt bra or push-up bra can help to bring the breasts towards the center for a more flattering look under clothing.

Side-set breasts

Similar to east-west, but with more space between the breasts. Plunge bras with a deep center gore, or a push-up bra can help bring the breasts together and create nice cleavage.

Teardrop breasts

Teardrop breasts are round but slightly less full at the top. This is a common shape, especially after having children. Most bra styles can fit well, but a full-coverage or T-shirt bra may be particularly comfortable and supportive.

Bell-shape breasts

These breasts are slimmer at the top and full at the bottom, resembling a bell shape. Women with this breast shape often have larger breasts and can benefit from full-coverage bras for adequate support and comfort.

Slender/Long breasts

Slender breasts are thin and long, and usually have nipples pointing downwards. A plunge-style or a wireless bra can be very comfortable, providing enough coverage and a natural shape.

Asymmetric breasts

It's very common for women to have one breast larger than the other. Consider bras with removable inserts so you can adjust for each breast individually.

Small breasts

For smaller breasts, consider bras with a bit of padding or a push-up design to enhance your natural shape. A bra with a smaller cup size, like an A or B, will likely provide the best fit. Bralettes can also be a great option, offering a comfortable fit with a touch of style.

Saggy or Pendulous Breasts

If your breasts are saggy or pendulous (which is very normal, especially as we age or after breastfeeding), a bra that offers good lift and support is something to consider. Balconette bras can also be a good choice, as they lift the breasts to enhance your natural shape.

Heavy or Large Breasts

If you have heavy or large breasts, a bra with full cups and wide, comfortable straps will provide support and distribute weight evenly. Look for bras with an underwire and reinforced side panels for extra support. Full-coverage and minimizer bras can also help to comfortably contain the breast tissue and provide a smoother look under clothing.

Read more in our beloved article Bra Types Every Woman Should Know.

How to read bra size charts

Remember that if you used the Eva method (recommended), you should use real bust measurements in all places where "bust measurements" are mentioned below.

There is no rule on how bra size charts should look like. The most common practice is to show back strap measurements as rows on the left side and cup sizes as columns at the top. All numbers in between are bust measurements (i.e. the measurement we just measured).

The table below is of the same type that you have probably seen before in relation to bra sizes. It is based entirely on the measurements and calculations we have described earlier in this article. Reading bra size charts is easy. The way to find the right bra size is to know how a bra should fit and how to measure yourself.

Please note that there are multiple bra size conventions and conversions, each with their own charts and tables.

When reading a bra size chart, first find your band size (32, 34, 36 etc for US/UK size and 70, 75, 70 etc for EU sizes) in the column on the left. Point at your band measurement and follow this line to the right with your finger until you find your bust measurement. Once you have found your bust measurement, follow this column up to the top. On the first line of the column you can read your cup size. If your measurements match two different cup sizes, then choose the larger cup size. (We know we may be overly detailed in our description. However, we want to make sure there is no misunderstanding.)

The above is our bra size chart that we use as a starting point for finding the right bra size.

Example: Say your under-bust measurement is 83 cm and your around-bust measurement is 98 cm. This gives you band size 80. On the same line as band size 80, you will find "96-98" for a C-cup, or "98-100" for a D-cup. When you are right inbetween, the larger cup size is suggested.

A clarification: When you have to choose between two band sizes, choose the smaller band size. When you have to choose between two cup sizes, choose the larger cup size.

Different brands, different tables, different sizes

There are countless bra size charts on the Internet. As every bust is unique, bra sizes are a fuzzy subject and it can be difficult to give exact answers that are always correct. Brands often try to "tweak" their charts to suit their customers' expectations.

Internationally, the EU sizes are the most common but there are actually seven different sizing conventions for bras.

If the measurements are the same, why can the fit of bras differ so much between brands?

Although the dimensions are the same, these are used differently by different brands.

The measurements are made differently in terms of fit. Some brands measure loose, others tight. A number (measurement) alone does not tell you anything (our strong recommendation is to always measure tight under the bust and loose over the bust).

When designing the fit of bras, this is done on mannequins (also called tailor's dummies) which form the basis of the bra's fit. The shape of the mannequin therefore affects the fit of the bra. If brands used different mannequins, the resulting bra fit will also differ.

Women's body shape (including bust shape) differs between different ethnic groups. It is therefore impossible for a bra brand to be an identical fit for all women worldwide. For example, a brand that focuses on Scandinavian women is unlikely to be as suitable for Asian women.

Shops have their own definitions for the different sizes. If you ask different shops how tight measurements should be taken, you will get different answers, not to mention that it is impossible to specify exactly in words how tight something is.

Finally, it often differs between bra styles. The same goes for clothes, where you can have Large in one model (or brand) but Medium in another, and also different depending on the type of garment. Similarly, you can have different bra sizes.

Size measurements and charts are not an indisputable answers to everything about sizes. Size tables act as an advisor. But, the better the measurement, the better the advice.

Download charts and tables as images

You are welcome to download and share our lists and tables but on the condition that you do not crop the images and therefore keep our logos, watermarks and names. Click on a thumbnail below to see the full version (please note that some, or all, of the images may be in English).

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Now that you are an expert, it's time to shop bras!