How Do You Cut And Sew A Corset With Boning?
1. Gather your supplies: fabric, boning (typically plastic or steel), thread, a scissors, and sewing needles.
2. Measure your body to determine how much fabric you will need for the corset and cut it accordingly. Make sure to leave some extra room if you plan on lacing up the corset later.
3. Mark where each piece of boning should go along the inside edge of the corset with tailor's chalk or marker. Sew each piece into place using a backstitch with strong thread; be sure to add additional reinforcing stitches at both ends of each bone channel. Secure the ends by looping through one end then back again several times before knotting off securely.
Contents:
Supplies Needed for Corset Making
A corset can be a challenging yet rewarding experience to make. Before beginning, it's important for the sewer to gather all the necessary supplies needed to create a beautiful and lasting garment. Of course, fabric is key – traditionally cotton sateen or linen are best when using boning as they provide structure while being lightweight. Depending on how intricate you want your design to be, choosing different kinds of lace may also be an option. For stability, interfacing with fusible backing should be used on the waistline and other areas where there will be extra strain from the boning - this will reinforce seams and prevent distortion in those areas.
The most important component of any corset is its boning channels; these contain the actual bones that keep everything held together properly. Not only does this give form and rigidity to your corset – it provides support for busts if needed. Boning channels come in several widths (usually 5mm-10mm) so pick one appropriate for your design needs or you risk damaging pieces due to improper sizing which won’t look good once finished either aesthetically nor structurally speaking. Don't forget about flat seam tape for binding edges as this acts like extra security along internal seams that will face daily wear-and-tear over time. Depending upon personal preference, ribbon lacing should never be neglected when constructing a corset - aside from adding that finishing touch no piece can do without.
Preparing the Fabric
In order to sew a corset with boning, one must first prepare the fabric that will be used. It is important for the fabric to have good recovery and stretchability in order for it to fit snugly around the body when worn. For this reason, most experienced corset-makers recommend using a combination of two fabrics: powernet mesh and sturdy cotton or cotton blend fabric. The latter should also be somewhat lightweight so as not to add too much weight and bulkiness after construction.
Both fabrics must be cut according to specific measurements before assembly can begin. Taking accurate measurements is key here; if done incorrectly, no amount of sewing will result in an adequately fitting garment. A pattern piece cut from tracing paper is essential to determine precise dimensions that correspond with one’s natural figure contours. Although many sites offer standard size charts or templates that can be adapted, every person's body shape differs slightly which requires careful attention when measuring oneself or the recipient of the corset piece being created.
Each pattern piece should then be pinned onto its corresponding fabric layers (mesh and main material) prior to cutting out all pieces using sharp scissors designed specifically for garment-making work such as dressmaking shears or pinking shears. Pins are recommended over basting stitches since they hold more securely without stretching either layer unevenly while cutting along lines traced from a paper pattern template - this guarantees exact precision in duplication throughout multiple couture pieces crafted afterwards by taking patterns derived from this original step as reference points for future replications down the line.
Drafting and Cutting Out the Corset Pattern
Drafting and cutting out a corset pattern is one of the more intricate parts of creating the perfect corset. It’s essential to trace an exact outline of your body while also designing it for comfort and structural support. To start, lay down newspaper or muslin fabric on a flat surface to begin drawing out your template onto - this can include a combination of side seams, bust apex darts, waist lines, hip lines, and necklines. Make sure these measured patterns have seam allowances. Once you’ve nailed down that basic silhouette and perfected it with additional features like strips or different material inserts then it's time to cut into that paper. Cutting carefully along each line will give you the two-piece front and four-piece back template pieces needed for assembly as well as the inner lining pieces so make sure not to forget those.
Before any boning is added though be sure to test fit your corset around your body - this step is vital before moving forward in construction because accuracy is key here especially with all its details. Not everyone has access to professional dress forms so doing these try-ons allows you to check how your creation fits in comparison against ready-made items available in stores or online which provide helpful insight into where adjustments should be made during future steps. Make notes or mark off what needs improvement on either side panels of the pattern for reference when adding boning later on.
Sewing Boning and Seams
When it comes to making a corset, one of the most important aspects is ensuring that boning and seams are properly sewn. Boning is designed to give structure and support to your garment by creating stiff edges along each seam line. Seams have a similar purpose in adding strength, but they also keep the fabric from fraying or stretching out of shape over time. To ensure maximum longevity and support, both boning and seams should be securely stitched in place before you finish your corset.
First, start by constructing the corset pattern pieces and sewing them together using proper stitch length for your fabric type. If you are using plastic boning, then use a zigzag or narrow reinforced stitch so that it does not rip when stretched; if using metal bones, consider stitching with buttons to avoid any sharp points tearing through your fabric. Once all of the seam lines have been completed on both sides of the garment, insert the boning material into the channels between each side of fabric following manufacturer instructions if applicable. This should be done carefully to make sure that there are no overlapping segments which would interfere with how smoothly the garment moves as it is worn over time.
The final step involves hand-sewing bias tape along all of the seams containing boning material while making sure that none of those stitches penetrate into any underlying fabric layers underneath them – this will help prevent tugging or rubbing against skin during wear. After completing this task you’ll find that even if flexed or bent in any direction your corset will hold up well without any visible gaps at its joints due to properly secured reinforcements.
Grommet Insertion
Grommet insertion is an important part of the construction process for a corset. A grommet provides additional strength and stability to the fabric, while also making it easier to lace up the front or back opening. Grommets are most commonly made from metal or plastic, but can be found in various colors and sizes.
When creating a corset with boning, one should consider how many grommets will be used along each side of the seams. The grommets should be spaced evenly throughout the piece and secured properly so that they don't come loose or fall out when tension is applied to them. A seamstress may opt to use specialized tools such as awls, grommet setting pliers, and hole punches when inserting grommets into their fabric in order to ensure that each step is executed correctly and securely.
Once all of the necessary holes have been punched for inserting the grommets, one can then place them into their designated positions on either end of the seam lines. If there are any gaps between adjacent grommets due to uneven spacing, these need to be corrected with an awl before attaching them firmly onto either side of the boning strip running down inside the corset's fabric panels. After this has been accomplished successfully, lacing up your new creation will truly become a pleasure.
Finishing the Corset with Trimmings
For those finishing touches to make the corset truly unique, trimmings can be added. Lace edgings are a popular and beautiful choice to adorn a corset. When attaching lace edging or other trims around the waistline of the corset, hand sewing is recommended since it allows for more flexibility with curves and detailed designs. A whipstitch also offers subtle lines within your project as long as the stitches remain consistent in size.
To add stability and ensure trimming will last throughout wear and washing, place interfacing underneath before stitching down your chosen fabric edges, ribbons or laces on top of it. This works particularly well for heavier appliqués which need extra hold when placed on light fabrics. Handmade braiding accents can provide soft structure along waistlines or anywhere needed that require more stability than traditional decorations offer but don't require full boning support.
See also: What is a double-boned corset?